Trains

Trains are the essential mode of travel in India. Erin and I so far have only travelled in Sleeper Class, which, though luxurious as it may sound, is second from the bottom of the classes. This is because the next class up (which is identical but air-conditioned, and probably cleaner) is typically 3-4 times as expensive, which works out to being another $10-20 Canadian. Not a lot of money yes, but saving that much goes a long way here!

The set up has eight beds to each little "quarter" of the train car (with maybe 12 quarters). Your bed is either the low, the middle or the upper one. We've taken a liking to the upper as it gives you some privacy and distance from the chaos 6 feet below you. Beds are meant for one person, but its not uncommon to see two to a bed (with any combination of the sexes) or even three when small children are in the mix. 

Three fans, caked in dust probably older than I, adorn each quarter. Nevertheless they are your best friend. They usually require someone to poke a pen through the cover and give them a spin to get started, like old propeller-driven planes. 

The train is very loud. Parallel tracks mean you pass other trains often and the oncoming sound of one is bone-rattling. The locals talk and argue at alarming volume levels. My favourite are the peddlers selling Chai tea, coffee, and various snacks and meals. Like at a baseball game, they don't just blandly shout what they're selling so much as sing it: "Chai-ii, chai-ii, chai-ii, chai-ii.......Chai-ii, chai-ii, chai-ii, chai-ii" over and over again up and down the aisles. Or "coffeeeee yes, coffeee...(repeat in Hindi)..."Coffeeeee yes, coffee". 

The smells can be suffocating at times. We haven't pinpointed as of yet if its fellow passengers, babies in need of being changed, or just the area we're passing through, but it can strike at any moment. 

The experience is a memorable one, one that I myself loathe in the moment but will look back at fondly in time (Erin takes it with more grace). The people are typically very friendly on trains, and love to get to know you, with the first question almost always "What country from?" They have no qualms with staring either, with Erin getting it the worst. I've taken to staring back until they look away. Erin realized she was sending the wrong message when she tried the same. 

Trains are perhaps the quintessential Indian experience we've found, and its one of the few places where you meet Indians who are honestly not trying to sell you anything or introduce you to their Uncle's store. I still prefer flying however.